What Recycled Cashmere Really Is (And Why It Is Not a Cheaper Alternative)

Recycled cashmere is one of the most misunderstood materials in the fashion industry.
Many people assume it is a “second-rate” option — a lower-cost compromise compared to virgin cashmere.

The reality is very different.

Recycled cashmere is not a low-cost alternative.
It is a technical, cultural and production choice rooted in more than one hundred years of textile expertise in Tuscany, Italy.

In this article, you will discover what recycled cashmere truly is, how it is made, and why its value is not lower — and in many cases, it is even higher.

What Is Recycled Cashmere?

Recycled cashmere (also called regenerated cashmere) is a fiber obtained from existing cashmere garments.

It is not synthetic.
It is not a “reconstructed” imitation fiber.
It is genuine cashmere that has already had a first life, carefully selected, mechanically reopened, carded and spun again into new yarn.

This process mainly takes place in Tuscany, particularly in the textile district of Prato, where textile recycling has been a well-established industrial and artisanal tradition for generations.

The journey looks like this:

1. Collection of used garments

2. Manual selection by composition and color

3. Mechanical reopening back into fiber

4. Carding

5. Spinning

6. Knitting production

Each phase is delicate.
Each mistake affects the final result.

Why It Is Not a Cheap Product

One of the most common misconceptions is that recycled cashmere should cost less.
In reality, producing high-quality recycled cashmere can be more complex — and sometimes more expensive — than working with virgin cashmere.

Here’s why.

1️⃣ Manual Selection

There are no machines capable of recognizing cashmere by touch the way an experienced textile sorter (cenciaiolo) can.

Every garment is checked by hand.

From 100 kg of collected garments, often only 10–15 kg of usable cashmere fiber remain.
The yield is extremely low.

2️⃣ Shorter Fibers

During the mechanical reopening process, fibers become shorter compared to virgin cashmere.

This requires:

• careful yarn twist adjustments

• specific spinning calibrations

• slower production speeds

Recycled yarn requires technical expertise and experience.

3️⃣ Every Batch Is Different

Virgin cashmere is standardized.
Recycled cashmere is not.

Each batch has:

• different behavior

• unique yield

• natural color variations

This means greater quality control and deeper know-how.

Not a Compromise — A Conscious Choice

Recycled cashmere is not created to reduce costs.
It exists to:

• reduce environmental impact

• enhance existing material

• preserve artisanal tradition

• create unique natural melange colors

• maintain a local, transparent supply chain

It represents a modern form of luxury — more conscious and responsible.

Many customers, after touching high-quality recycled yarn, realize that:

• the hand feel is rich and full

• the warmth is identical

• the structure can be more stable

• the natural melange effect is deeper and more refined

Recycled does not mean “less.”
It means different.

The True Value: Culture and Territory

Recycled cashmere is the result of a short and integrated supply chain unique in the world.

In Tuscany, all production stages are located within a small geographic area:

• selection

• carding

• spinning

• knitting

• finishing

This ensures control, expertise and quality.

It is not only a technical matter.
It is a cultural one.

Learn More in the Podcast

If you would like to explore the full process, meet the people behind it and understand the Tuscan supply chain in depth, you can listen to Season 1 of the podcast “The Journey of Cashmere” on YouTube:

👉 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvdApv_L6Kk&list=PLFyPJyKp8KjHeUFY1tem7WSAOXD8aB4jM&index=21

In the podcast, you will discover:

• the complete selection process

• differences between virgin and recycled cashmere

• the real cost structure

• the truth about greenwashing

• the future of regenerated fibers

Recycled cashmere is not a shortcut.
It is a complex, technical and artisanal process.

It is not a cheap alternative.
It is a value-driven choice.

And above all, it is a story that deserves to be understood.