How to Choose the Right Yarn Starting from the Project (Not Just the Yarn)

When choosing a yarn, the most common mistake is starting with the wrong question:
“Do I like this yarn?”

The right question instead is:
👉 “Is this yarn suitable for what I want to make?”

A good project is always the result of a balance between final use, garment structure, and yarn characteristics.
Let’s see how to make the right choice, step by step.

1️⃣ Start from the Project, Not from the Yarn

Before looking at Nm, fiber content, or color, ask yourself:

• Is it an everyday garment or a special piece?

• Does it need to be warm, light, breathable, or durable?

• Should it have a soft drape or hold its shape?

• Is it an accessory or a structured garment?

🔑 The same yarn can be perfect for a scarf—and completely wrong for a sweater.

2️⃣ Define the Final Use of the Garment

Practical examples

• Scarf / Shawl

  • soft hand feel

  • volume

  • elasticity

  • even lightly twisted yarns work well

• Sweater

  • balance between softness and strength

  • durability over time

  • stable and regular yarn

• Hat

  • elasticity

  • shape memory

  • yarn that does not stretch out

• Elegant garment

  • fineness

  • clean surface

  • combed or well-twisted yarn

3️⃣ Choose the Right Fiber (Before Looking at Nm)

The fiber matters more than the Nm number.

• Cashmere

  • warm

  • lightweight

  • extremely soft

  • ideal for garments worn directly on the skin

• Wool

  • durable

  • elastic

  • perfect for structured knitwear

• Recycled yarns

  • bulkier

  • less regular

  • ideal for casual, comfortable garments

• Cotton

  • low elasticity

  • cool and breathable

  • great for summer garments, less suitable for structured pieces

👉 Same Nm, different fiber = completely different result.

4️⃣ Evaluate Yarn Thickness Based on the Desired Result

Yarn count (Nm) is important, but it must be read in relation to the project.

• Fine yarns (high Nm)

  • lightweight garments

  • elegant knitwear

  • clean surfaces

• Medium yarns

  • everyday wear

  • versatility

  • good balance between weight and warmth

• Thick yarns (low Nm)

  • warm garments

  • rustic look

  • visible stitches

⚠️ A yarn that is too thick can make a garment stiff.
⚠️ A yarn that is too fine can make it weak or lifeless.

5️⃣ Consider the Yarn Structure

Thickness is not the only factor.

Also consider:

• twist (high twist = more compact, low twist = softer)

• number of plies (plied yarns are more stable)

• carded or combed

• regularity

👉 A stable yarn is essential for:

• sweaters

• long-lasting garments

• machine knitting

6️⃣ Think About the Knitting Method (Hand or Machine)

The same yarn behaves differently depending on how it is worked.

• Hand knitting

  • elasticity is important

  • hand feel matters a lot

• Machine knitting

  • regularity is crucial

  • tension must be controlled

  • yarn count must match the machine gauge

A yarn that looks perfect on paper can become difficult to manage if used the wrong way.

7️⃣ Always Make a Swatch

This is the most underestimated step—and the most important one.

A swatch allows you to:

• see the real outcome

• evaluate the hand feel after washing

• check stability and drape

• avoid irreversible mistakes

👉 A yarn only truly reveals itself once it has been worked.

There is no perfect yarn in absolute terms.
There is only the right yarn for that specific project.

Learning to start from the final result means:

• less waste

• fewer mistakes

• better garments

• greater satisfaction

Choosing a yarn is not about numbers alone, but about consistency between project, material, and technique.

When you start from the project:

• Nm becomes a tool

• fiber becomes a conscious choice

• the final result is never accidental