Pilling: What It Is, Why It Forms, and How to Manage It

by Sep 23, 2025Cashmere

Due Toscani Dta001 1391Pilling is one of the most common phenomena in knitwear, especially in garments made from fine fibers like cashmere. Those small balls that form on the surface of the fabric are not a defect in the material, but the natural result of wear. Understanding this phenomenon helps you better care for your garments and prolong their beauty over time.

Pilling refers to the formation of small fiber balls (pills) on the surface of the yarn or fabric. These balls are created when the fibers, stressed by rubbing and movement, become tangled and trapped in the knit.

Pilling is mainly caused by:

Movement and rubbing: areas such as the hips, armpits, sleeves, or where a bag touches the fabric are most susceptible.

Fiber length and strength: shorter or less resistant fibers tend to come out of the yarn more easily and become tangled.

Yarn type: A carded or bulky yarn tends to pill more than a combed or compact yarn.

Pilling and the difference between new and recycled fiber

New (virgin) fiber: The fibers are longer, stronger, and more compact. This makes it more difficult for the ends to come out of the yarn, reducing pilling.

Recycled fiber: When a garment is frayed to return to its original state, the fibers shorten. This results in a more delicate yarn with less firmly anchored fibers, making it more prone to pilling, especially during the first few uses. However, with washing and the sweater settling in, the tendency to pilling tends to decrease.

How to prevent pilling

Although unavoidable, there are measures that reduce pilling:

Delicate washing: Hand wash or machine wash on the wool cycle, always at low temperatures and using a small amount of detergent.

Use only a small amount of fabric softener: it makes the fiber more slippery and therefore more susceptible to rubbing.

Avoid excessive rubbing: be careful with shoulder bags or scratchy jackets over your sweater.

Sleeving your sweater: Alternate the use of cashmere items, avoiding wearing them on consecutive days.

How to remove pilling

When balls form, removing them is simple:

Cashmere comb: the most effective and gentle tool.

Pilling razor (defuzzer): practical, but use with care to avoid damaging the sweater.

Manual method: removing small balls by hand is always safe.

Pilling is a natural phenomenon and not a defect of cashmere or wool. It can occur more easily in recycled fiber garments, but with proper care and maintenance, sweaters will retain their softness and beauty for many years.

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