What does "yarns to be processed" mean?

In the world of yarns – especially those intended for artisanal and industrial knitting – you often read the phrase “yarns to be treated”.
But what does it really mean? And most importantly: what kind of treatment is needed and how is it done?

Let's clarify, once and for all.

What are yarns to be treated

A yarn to be treated is a yarn that has not yet undergone the final finishing treatments.
In practice, it is a “raw” or semi-processed yarn, designed to be worked (knitted or woven) and then finished on the completed garment.

These yarns:

• have not yet been washed

• are not felted or stabilized

• may appear stiffer, duller, or more irregular

• only show their best after treatment

👉 It's a technical choice, not a defect.

Why do yarns to be treated exist

Yarns to be treated exist because treating the finished garment yields superior results compared to treating the yarn itself.

In particular, they allow for:

• greater final softness

• better aesthetic appearance of the knit stitch

• greater compactness or "bloom" of the garment

• control of hand feel and volume

They are widely used for:

• cashmere

• recycled cashmere

• wool

• noble blends (wool/silk, wool/cashmere, etc.)

How a yarn to be treated looks (before)

Before treatment, a yarn to be treated may appear:

• drier to the touch

• less soft

• visually "flatter"

• with an undefined knit stitch

⚠️ This often causes confusion for those unfamiliar with the process and who evaluate the yarn before its natural completion.

What yarn treatment involves (on the garment)

The treatment is not done on the yarn on the cone, but on the finished garment (sweater, scarf, accessory, sample).

1. Washing

The garment is washed in water, with mild detergents specifically for natural fibers.

It serves to:

• eliminate spinning and processing oils

• relax the fiber

• begin the opening of the yarn

2. Fulling (when required)

Fulling is a controlled mechanical action that opens the fiber.

Main effects:

• the garment compacts slightly

• the yarn "blooms"

• softness increases

• thermal insulation improves

⚠️ Not all yarns require fulling: it depends on the count, the fiber, and the desired result.

3. Rinsing and stabilization

After treatment, the garment is:

• rinsed

• stabilized to the correct dimensions

• prepared for drying

This step is crucial to prevent future deformations.

4. Drying and resting

Drying occurs:

• flat

• or in specific low-temperature machines

The garment then needs rest, so that the natural fiber can fully stabilize.

How the yarn looks after treatment

After treatment, the change is evident:

• softer

• fuller

• warmer

• more defined knit stitch

• final appearance consistent with fiber quality

👉 It is at this moment that the yarn shows its true value.

Yarns to be treated ≠ defective yarns

It's important to state this clearly:

A yarn to be treated is not a defective yarn,
it is a yarn designed for a correct production process.

Evaluating it before treatment is like judging a garment before its final wash.

When to choose a yarn to be treated

Choose a yarn to be treated if:

• you knit (by hand or machine)

• you produce finished garments

• you want maximum control over the final result

• you know (or want to learn) the finishing process

If, however, you are looking for a yarn ready for use without treatments, then you need a yarn that has already been treated upstream.

Yarns to be treated are part of the tradition of quality textiles and knitwear.
They require knowledge, but they pay off with significantly superior results.

Understanding what they are and how they work means taking a step forward in yarn culture.

IF YOU WANT TO KNOW HOW TO TREAT YOUR WORK AT HOME CLICK HERE.

I STRONGLY RECOMMEND ALWAYS MAKING A SWATCH AND WASHING IT BEFORE MAKING THE FINAL PIECE.