Washing cashmere

To achieve its full splendor, it is essential to make a swatch of 10x10 or, even better, 20x20 cm before starting work, and wash it by following these simple steps. It is advisable to knit rather loosely, as cashmere yarn tends to swell. You need to count the stitches and measure the swatch before and after washing. This way, you can check the yield and determine the size to estimate consumption. You can also assess the feel and the work of the swatch; if knitted more tightly, it will tend to be less soft and more resistant to pilling, and vice versa if knitted more loosely (less dense).

This step is necessary to verify that:

1- the yarn does not have defects (if you make the finished garment without first making a swatch, we cannot exchange or take back the yarn)

2- to see the yield in terms of washing, hand, and measurements

3- to calculate consumption (if you then run out of yarn, it's not certain you'll find it again, it's better to calculate consumption beforehand)

The swatch should be washed in the same way you intend to wash the finished garment, otherwise the result will be different. If you hand-wash the swatch, you should always hand-wash the finished garment; conversely, if you machine-wash the swatch, you should machine-wash the garment (only the first time in the washing machine, then always by hand). This is because if you hand-wash the swatch and then machine-wash the garment, you will get a very different result, and vice versa.

Premise. Sometimes it may be necessary to steam the swatch and the garment before or after washing. Steaming means passing the iron over the swatch and/or garment, releasing steam, WITHOUT touching the iron to the swatch/garment, either before or after washing.

HAND WASH TREATMENT:

– In a basin, for every 5 liters of lukewarm water, add 20 ml of detergent for DELICATE GARMENTS (usually half a capful)
– Soak the swatch or finished garment for about 2 hours. Drain well WITHOUT WRINGING and rinse in clean water.
– If the yarn has some impurities (e.g., spinning oils), wash it in clean cold water, adding 40 ml of VINEGAR. This step should only be performed during the first wash; it is not necessary to repeat it in subsequent washes.

MACHINE WASH TREATMENT:

Machine washing is performed when you want the classic cashmere "halo" to emerge on the fiber's surface. The indicated wash is very delicate, and the presence of vinegar will be an excellent descaler:

– Machine wash at 30° for 7 minutes with very little detergent for delicate garments

– Rinse in the washing machine

– Machine wash at 30° for 7 minutes with very little fabric softener and 1/4 capful of white wine vinegar

– Spin at 400 rpm for 5 minutes (or as little as possible)

– Dry flat, avoiding direct sunlight

– For strong and contrasting colors in striped and jacquard knitwear, we recommend an initial dry clean and washing garments with a half load and plenty of water.

This washing procedure is valid whether it is a swatch, finished garment, or the yarn itself.

To wash the yarn before working with it, you need to be experienced, otherwise the yarn will tangle during washing and become unusable. It is therefore necessary to make skeins one meter in diameter, no more than one hundred grams each, and tie them with at least 5-6 intertwined ties so that the yarn does not tangle. If you are not experienced in making skeins, first practice with inexpensive yarns (acrylic, low-quality wool, etc.) to see the final result. If the skeins do not tangle in the washing machine, you can start with cashmere.

This machine washing procedure should only be performed the first time; subsequently, it is recommended to hand wash the garments following this procedure:

If you want your pullover to always remain soft and fluffy, follow these tips:

Soak it in lukewarm water with a mild detergent or hair shampoo (use very little), adding a bit of white vinegar in case of stripes or bright colors.
Leave it to soak for a short time, at most ten to fifteen minutes.
Do not rub it and handle it gently.
Rinse it patiently several times with plenty of lukewarm water until the water is perfectly clear.
Do not wring it, but remove the water by gently pressing.
Wrap the pullover in a terry towel to remove excess water.
Lay it flat on a horizontal surface, taking care to avoid direct sun exposure.
Let it air dry at room temperature, never near a heat source.
Steam it with a strong jet of steam without pressing with the iron.

A small tip: wash your cashmere pullover often, this way the fibers will regain new vigor and your garment will always be like new.

Tips and warnings

1 – If you work the yarn with a machine, it is advisable to use multiple yarn guides.

2 – For cashmere yarns, a 2-4% allowance for dyeing or structural imperfections must be tolerated.

3 – It is essential to carry out adequate washing tests on a pilot garment/swatch before proceeding with processing, to verify the shrinkage values and color fastness (this is for machine processing of medium or large quantities of yarn). For hand knitting, it is essential to carry out adequate washing and ironing tests on a swatch before processing.

4 – To achieve greater smoothness and uniformity on knitting machines, further paraffin waxing is advisable, especially if the yarn is worked 10/15 days after the delivery date.

5 – When using yarn for striped knitwear or generally with multiple colors, Hircus Filati will not be responsible for any damages resulting from non-compliance with the specifications.

N.B.: The above is indicative; it is essential to carry out adequate washing tests on a swatch before proceeding with processing. Some types of yarn, depending on the yarn manufacturer (and many other factors), perform differently based on the type of wash.

P.S.: There is another way to wash untreated yarn; if you want to discover it click here.

P.S.1: If you want to learn more, visit our blog by clicking here.

ATTENTION: Always make a swatch and wash it before creating the final piece. If the swatch shows defects attributable to the yarn, we will exchange or refund the yarn after verifying the defect.
We will NOT be responsible for work carried out without first having made a swatch.
In case of defective yarn, you must return the yarn and the executed swatch so that we can verify the defect.
If you use an external knitter, always ask them to make a swatch before creating the final garment. We will NOT be responsible for work carried out if you have not first made or had a swatch made.
Every yarn is different, every color is different, and performs differently, every spinning mill produces yarn differently