How to Work Yarns on Cones

How to Work Yarns on Cones

Cashmere yarns for knitting machines and hand knitting cashmere yarns on cones are never (or almost never) processed (fulled) and must be processed (washed) after working. This is because working with an unprocessed yarn is much simpler, and there is less risk of the yarn breaking or the knitting machine needles breaking.

My first and most important advice is always to make a small sample/swatch (10x10 or better 20x20) and wash it in the washing machine before making the final piece.

This is because cashmere yarns, even if they have the same count (fineness, thickness), are never all the same. There are many variables in the production of cashmere yarns, from spinning to dyeing.

First of all, every spinning mill has its own method and market needs, and the yarns can be harder or softer and also have a different dye. Furthermore, there is also a difference between yarns from the same spinning mill, depending on the colors; lighter colors are different from darker colors and mélange colors and require little care in washing machine processing and in the first wash.

For example, darker colors will always be more crude (less soft) than lighter colors because more invasive fixatives are used in dyeing to set the color so that the yarn does not lose color during washing and over time, but the fiber itself suffers in softness.

Furthermore, the type of machine processing is influenced. Cashmere tends to swell when washed, and therefore needs sufficient space, so if you want to achieve maximum softness, you tend to work it with a slightly looser knit.

If, on the other hand, you want to achieve maximum resistance, especially against pilling (the classic cashmere pilling), you tend to work it with a tighter knit. In this way, you will get a less soft, slightly heavier knit, but much more resistant to pilling.

There are two ways to treat yarns. The first is to make a sample and wash it before doing the final work and then do the same treatment to the finished garment. The second is to make skeins and wash them, so that you don't have to wash the finished garment (in this case, you need to wash a small skein first to see the result).

Below, I will explain the first method. If you want to see how to do the second, click on the link below:

https://florencecashmereyarn.com/it/due-modi-di-lavorare-e-lavare-i-filati-non-trattati/

Here are our washing tips:

Always make a sample first (10x10 or better 20x20 cm.) and wash it before making the final piece

1 – Sometimes it may be necessary to steam the sample and garment before or after washing. Steaming means passing the iron, releasing steam onto the sample and/or garment WITHOUT placing the iron on the sample/garment, before or after washing.

2 – The following washing tips are general and basic. Before washing the sample, measure it so you can calculate the returns/yields. Also check the sample's yield well for softness and nap, so you can see if you should work it tighter or looser, or if you should wash it a little more or a little less; in fact, if you work it too tight, the cashmere will not release all its softness as it tends to swell, and if you wash the sample/garment less, you will get less nap and less softness, conversely if you wash it longer in the washing machine. To get more nap, increase the spin, but be careful not to overdo it. If necessary, run multiple samples and multiple wash tests, with tighter and more precise machine (or hand) work and different washing times.

3 – All the above also applies to yarns worked by hand with knitting needles or crochet hooks.

WASHING MACHINE TREATMENT:
Washing in the washing machine is done when an unprocessed yarn is worked. The indicated wash is very delicate, and the presence of vinegar will be an excellent descaler:

– Wash in the washing machine at 30°C for 7 minutes with very little detergent for delicate garments.

– Rinse in the washing machine

– Wash in the washing machine at 30°C for 7 minutes with very little fabric softener and 1/4 glass of white wine vinegar (not red vinegar as it stains).

– Spin at 400 rpm for 5 minutes (or as little as possible).

– Dry flat, without exposing it to direct sunlight and without squeezing the garment (otherwise you risk deforming it).

– For strong and contrasting colors in striped and jacquard knitwear, a first dry clean is recommended, and washing garments with plenty of water.

This washing procedure is valid whether it is a sample, a finished garment, or the yarn itself.

ATTENTION: This washing procedure should only be performed the first time; subsequently, we recommend washing garments by hand following this procedure:

If you want your sweater to always remain soft and fluffy, follow these tips:

  • Soak in lukewarm water with a mild detergent (use very little), adding a little white wine vinegar in case of scratches or bright colors.
  • Leave it to soak for a short period, at most ten to fifteen minutes.
  • Do not rub it and handle it gently.
  • Rinse it patiently several times with plenty of water, always lukewarm, until the water is perfectly clear.
  • Do not wring it but remove the water by gently pressing.
  • Wrap the sweater in a sponge or towel to remove excess water.
  • Lay it flat on a horizontal surface, taking care to avoid direct sun exposure.
  • Allow to dry at room temperature, never near heat sources.
  • Iron it with a strong jet of steam without placing the iron on the sweater.