Pilling: what it is, why it forms, and how to deal with it

Pilling is one of the most common phenomena in knitwear, especially in garments made from fine fibers like cashmere. Those small balls that form on the surface of the fabric are not a defect in the material, but the natural result of wear. Understanding the phenomenon helps in taking better care of your garments and prolonging their beauty over time.

The term pilling refers to the formation of small balls of fibers (known as pills) on the surface of the yarn or fabric. These pills are created when fibers, subjected to friction and movement, tangle together and remain trapped in the knit.

Pilling primarily forms due to:

• Movement and friction: areas like hips, armpits, sleeves, or where a bag rubs against the fabric are most susceptible.

• Fiber length and strength: shorter or less resilient fibers tend to pull out of the yarn more easily and tangle.

• Type of yarn: a carded or voluminous yarn tends to pill more than a worsted and compact yarn.

Difference between new and recycled fiber

Fiber length is key:

• New (virgin) fiber: fibers are longer, stronger, and more compact. This makes it harder for the ends to pull out of the yarn, reducing pilling.

• Recycled fiber: when a garment is shredded to return to its fiber state, the fibers shorten. This results in a more delicate yarn with less anchored fibers, making it more prone to pilling, especially during initial uses. However, with washing and the settling of the knit, the tendency to pill usually decreases.

How to prevent pilling

Although inevitable, there are steps you can take to reduce pilling:

• Delicate wash: hand wash or machine wash on a wool cycle, always at low temperatures and with minimal detergent.

• Use little fabric softener: it makes the fibers more slippery and thus more prone to friction.

• Avoid excessive rubbing: be mindful of shoulder bags or rough jackets worn over the sweater.

• Rest the garment: alternate wearing your cashmere items, avoiding wearing them on consecutive days.

How to remove pilling

When pills form, removing them is simple:

• Cashmere comb or pilling comb: the most effective and gentle tool.

• Pilling shaver (defuzzer): practical, but use with caution to avoid damaging the knit.

• Manual method: removing pills by hand, if there are only a few, is always safe.

Pilling is a natural phenomenon and not a defect in cashmere or wool. In garments made from recycled fiber, it may occur more easily, but with proper care and maintenance, sweaters will maintain their softness and beauty for many years.