Pilling: what it is, why it forms, and how to deal with it

Pilling is one of the most common phenomena in knitwear, especially in garments made from precious fibers like cashmere. Those small balls that form on the fabric surface are not a defect in the material, but a natural result of use. Understanding the phenomenon helps you take better care of your garments and prolong their beauty over time.

The term pilling refers to the formation of small fiber balls (or pills) on the surface of yarn or fabric. These pills form when fibers, stressed by friction and movement, tangle together and become trapped in the knit.

Pilling primarily forms due to:

• Movement and friction: areas like hips, armpits, sleeves, or where a bag rubs against the fabric are most susceptible.

• Fiber length and strength: shorter or less resilient fibers tend to escape from the yarn more easily and tangle.

• Type of yarn: a carded or bulky yarn tends to pill more than a combed and compact yarn.

Difference between new and recycled fiber

Fiber length is key:

• New (virgin) fiber: fibers are longer, stronger, and more compact. This makes it harder for ends to escape from the yarn, reducing pilling.

• Recycled fiber: when a garment is shredded back into fiber, the fibers shorten. This results in a more delicate yarn with less anchored fibers, making it more prone to pilling, especially during initial uses. However, with washing and the settling of the knit, the tendency to pill usually decreases.

How to prevent pilling

Even if inevitable, there are precautions that reduce pilling formation:

• Gentle washing: hand wash or machine wash on a wool program, always at low temperatures and with little detergent.

• Use little fabric softener: it makes the fiber more slippery and thus more prone to friction.

• Avoid excessive rubbing: be careful with shoulder bags or rough jackets worn over sweaters.

• Resting the knitwear: alternate the use of cashmere garments, avoiding wearing them on consecutive days.

How to remove pilling

When pills form, removing them is simple:

• Cashmere comb or pilling comb: the most effective and delicate tool.

• Pilling shaver (defuzzer): practical, but use with care to avoid damaging the knit.

• Manual method: removing pills by hand, if there are few, is always safe.

Pilling is a natural phenomenon and not a defect of cashmere or wool. In garments made from recycled fiber, it may occur more easily, but with proper care and maintenance, sweaters will maintain their softness and beauty for many years.