From worn-out sweater to yarn: the journey of regenerated fiber

What really happens to an old cashmere sweater when we stop wearing it?

Does it end up in a landfill?
Is it destroyed?
Or can it be reborn?

In the heart of Tuscany, in the Prato textile district, there is a unique process in the world that allows a cashmere garment to live a second life. It's not magic. It's technique, experience, industrial culture, and craftsmanship.

This is the journey of recycled fiber.

But first, check out our recycled cashmere yarns by clicking here.

And when you're done reading this article, delve deeper into the topic by listening to the recycled cashmere podcast by clicking here

1️⃣ It all starts with selection: the rag picker's work

The first step is the most delicate: selection.

Used garments arrive in large quantities. Not everything is cashmere, even if the label says so. Many garments are blended, others are deteriorated, and still others do not have a clear composition.

This is where a historical figure of the Prato district comes into play: the rag picker.

The rag picker recognizes cashmere by touch.
They don't use sophisticated tools, but experienced hands.

They check:

• actual composition

• presence of synthetic fibers

• fiber quality

• state of wear

• color

Selection is manual and very slow.
From 100 kg of collected garments, only a small portion becomes usable raw material.

This is the first reason why recycled cashmere is not an "easy" material.

2️⃣ Color sorting: the secret of natural melanges

Once selected, garments are sorted by color.

We're not just talking about "red" or "gray."
We're talking about:

• deep burgundies

• light camel

• melange gray

• forest green

• natural browns

Color sorting is fundamental because quality recycled cashmere is often produced without new dyeing.

The final color is the result of blending already colored garments.

This creates unique shades, impossible to replicate industrially.
Each batch is slightly different.
Each color tells a story.

3️⃣ Opening: the return to fiber

After selection, the garment is no longer a sweater.
It is disassembled and fed into machines that mechanically open it.

The fabric is returned to its fiber state.

This is a very delicate phase.
Too much aggression breaks the fiber.
Too much slowness reduces yield.

Technical expertise here makes the difference between a mediocre yarn and an excellent one.

During this phase, the fiber shortens compared to virgin fiber.
This requires careful adjustment in subsequent stages.

4️⃣ Carding: homogenizing and cleaning

The opened fiber goes to the carding machine.

Carding has several objectives:

• further separating fibers

• eliminating any impurities

• homogenizing the mass

• preparing the material for spinning

The carding machine is the heart of the process.
An error at this stage compromises the regularity of the yarn.

This is where the foundation of quality is born.

5️⃣ Spinning: transforming fiber into yarn

The carded fiber is transformed into yarn.

It is a technical phase that requires specific experience with recycled materials.
Why?

Because the fiber is shorter than new cashmere.
This means that you need to:

• increase or adjust the twist

• control tension

• work at lower speeds

• check compactness

A good recycled yarn should not be weak or irregular.
It must be stable, compact, and pleasant to the touch.

The difference between an excellent yarn and a mediocre one lies entirely here.

6️⃣ Quality control: every batch is unique

In new cashmere, characteristics are relatively standardized.
In recycled, each batch is different.

They check:

• yarn count

• uniformity

• presence of knots

• processing yield

• behavior under tension

This requires an artisanal approach even in an industrial setting.

Total standardization is not possible.
But it is precisely this uniqueness that makes the product special.

7️⃣ From bobbin to knitwear

The regenerated yarn is then processed into knitwear.

Here come into play:

• machine gauge

• chosen stitch

• tension

• final treatment

Recycled material reacts differently than new material.
Those who work with it must know its properties.

The final finishing (washing and controlled steaming) stabilizes the garment and enhances its hand feel.

8️⃣ A short supply chain, unique in the world

The true value of this journey is not just technical.

It's geographical.

In the Tuscan textile district, all these phases occur within a few kilometers:

• selection

• opening

• carding

• spinning

• knitting

• finishing

This allows for:

• continuous control

• dialogue between companies

• rapid corrections

• consistent quality

It's not just a production process.
It's an ecosystem.

9️⃣ Why this process is truly sustainable

Sustainability is not a slogan.

In regenerated cashmere it means:

• no new animal farming

• drastic reduction of environmental impact

• reuse of existing material

• local supply chain

• less transport

But above all, it means valuing historical technical expertise.

An old sweater is not waste.
It is a raw material.

The journey of regenerated fiber demonstrates that value lies not only in novelty, but in transformation.

Recycled cashmere is not a compromise.
It is a balance between tradition, technique, and responsibility.

And every yarn tells a story that begins long before its second life.