How to Work Untreated Cashmere Yarns
Knitting machine cashmere yarns and hand-knitting cashmere yarns on cones are never treated (or almost never) and should be treated (washed) after processing. This is because machine-knitting untreated yarn is much simpler, and there is less risk of the yarn breaking or the machine needles breaking.
My first and most important advice is always to make a small sample (10x10 or, even better, 20x20) and wash it in the washing machine before making the final piece.
This is because cashmere yarns, even if they have the same count (fineness), are never all the same. There are many variables in the production of cashmere yarns, from spinning to dyeing.
Firstly, each spinning mill has its own method and market needs, and the yarns can be harder or softer and also have a different dye. Furthermore, there is also a difference between yarns from the same spinning mill, depending on the colors; lighter colors are different from darker colors and mélange colors and require small precautions in machine processing and in the first wash.
For example, darker colors will always be rougher (less soft) than lighter colors because in dyeing, more invasive fixing agents are used to ensure that the yarn does not lose its color during washing and over time, but the fiber itself suffers in terms of softness.
Furthermore, the type of machine processing also affects it. Cashmere tends to swell when washed and needs sufficient space for this, so if you want to achieve maximum softness, you tend to knit it with a slightly looser stitch.
Conversely, if you want to achieve maximum resistance, especially regarding pilling (the classic little ball that cashmere sweaters make), you tend to knit it with tighter stitches. This will result in a less soft, slightly heavier knit, but much more resistant to pilling.
Here are our washing tips:
Premises:
1 – Sometimes it may be necessary to steam the sample and the garment before or after washing. Steaming means passing an iron, releasing steam onto the sample and/or garment WITHOUT resting the iron on the sample/garment, before or after washing.
2 – The following washing tips are general and basic. Before washing the sample, measure it, so you can calculate shrinkage. Also, check the sample's yield well for softness and nap, so you can see if it's better to knit it tighter or looser, or to wash it a little more or a little less; in fact, if you knit it too tight, the cashmere will not release its full softness as it tends to swell, and if you wash the sample/garment less, you will get less nap and less softness; conversely, if you wash it longer in the washing machine. To get more nap, increase the spin cycle, but be careful not to overdo it. If necessary, make more samples and more washing tests, with tighter and looser machine (or hand) knitting and with different washing times.
3 – Everything said also applies to yarns hand-knitted or crocheted.
MACHINE WASHING TREATMENT:
Machine washing is performed when an untreated yarn is machine knitted. The indicated wash is very delicate, and the presence of vinegar will be an excellent descaler:
– Machine wash at 30° for 7 minutes with very little detergent for delicate garments
– Rinse in the washing machine
– Machine wash at 30° for 7 minutes with very little fabric softener and 1/4 scoop of white wine vinegar (not red vinegar because it stains).
– Spin at 400 rpm for 5 minutes (or as little as possible)
– Dry flat without exposing to direct sunlight and without wringing the garment (otherwise there is a risk of deforming it)
– For strong and contrasting colors in striped and jacquard knitwear, we recommend a first dry clean and washing garments with a half load and plenty of water.
This washing procedure is valid whether it is a sample, a finished garment, or the yarn itself.
WARNING: This washing procedure should only be performed the first time, subsequently it is advisable to wash garments by hand following this procedure:
If you want your pullover to always remain soft and fluffy, follow these suggestions:
Soak it in lukewarm water with a delicate detergent (use very little), adding a little white wine vinegar in case of stripes or bright colors.
Leave it to soak for a short time, ten to fifteen minutes at most.
Do not rub it and handle it gently.
Rinse it patiently several times with plenty of lukewarm water until the water is perfectly clear.
Do not wring it, but remove the water by pressing gently.
Wrap the pullover in a terry cloth or towel to remove excess water.
Lay it flat on a horizontal surface, taking care to avoid direct exposure to the sun.
Let it dry at room temperature, never near a heat source.
Iron it with a strong jet of steam without resting the iron on the pullover.
